Which threaded 9mm
- Thread starter RedOBXT
- Start date
This is a subject that I thoroughly enjoy discussing.
Out of the 3 you have listed, the CZ omega would be my first choice.
But that's just out of the list you have.
I personally like fixed barrels for suppressor hosts. Though most aren't "suppressor ready" out of the box. Often you'll have to track down a threaded barrel, or extended barrel and have it threaded yourself, but a fixed barrel suppressor host don't require neilson type devices on the suppressor itself, and they are typically more reliable too because it eliminates one of the "weak" points of a handgun suppressor (slide to barrel movement/restriction when you add weight [suppressor] on the end of the barrel).
If you glance over the article, you'll find what I believe is probably the all time best fixed barrel suppressor host out there. One photo even shows an integral suppressor setup on the pistol.
http://www.guns.com/2014/01/17/walther-p38-godfather-modern-combat-handgun/
Of course, there are plenty of shoulder fired fixed barrel suppressor hosts. uzi, mini/micro uzi, m11's, beretta storm, ar-9, cz scorpion (16 inch carbines are coming out soon). sp89 and clones and others.
Out of the 3 you have listed, the CZ omega would be my first choice.
But that's just out of the list you have.
I personally like fixed barrels for suppressor hosts. Though most aren't "suppressor ready" out of the box. Often you'll have to track down a threaded barrel, or extended barrel and have it threaded yourself, but a fixed barrel suppressor host don't require neilson type devices on the suppressor itself, and they are typically more reliable too because it eliminates one of the "weak" points of a handgun suppressor (slide to barrel movement/restriction when you add weight [suppressor] on the end of the barrel).
If you glance over the article, you'll find what I believe is probably the all time best fixed barrel suppressor host out there. One photo even shows an integral suppressor setup on the pistol.
http://www.guns.com/2014/01/17/walther-p38-godfather-modern-combat-handgun/
Of course, there are plenty of shoulder fired fixed barrel suppressor hosts. uzi, mini/micro uzi, m11's, beretta storm, ar-9, cz scorpion (16 inch carbines are coming out soon). sp89 and clones and others.
I have no rational case to make one way or other.
That said, I like the Beretta just cuz I like it and another not listed, the FNX 9.
If I had to make a case for these it would be that they are among those that aren't striker fired and are also DA/SA pistols. Not that others aren't, just that these are and I have nothing else to go on other than these are most aesthetically pleasing by comparison.
That said, I like the Beretta just cuz I like it and another not listed, the FNX 9.
If I had to make a case for these it would be that they are among those that aren't striker fired and are also DA/SA pistols. Not that others aren't, just that these are and I have nothing else to go on other than these are most aesthetically pleasing by comparison.
I love my Beretta 92's, but they wouldn't be my first choice in a suppressed option.
The locking block on the 92 has always been a sort of Achilles' heel of the platform and can crack with extended use under normal circumstances. Add the weight of a suppressor to the front of the barrel and that puts the locking block under even more pressure. To Beretta's credit the locking blocks seem much stronger in recent years and occurrences of the issue seem to be much less frequent...
The locking block on the 92 has always been a sort of Achilles' heel of the platform and can crack with extended use under normal circumstances. Add the weight of a suppressor to the front of the barrel and that puts the locking block under even more pressure. To Beretta's credit the locking blocks seem much stronger in recent years and occurrences of the issue seem to be much less frequent...
I have several (pistol caliber) guns that I almost always shoot suppressed. Some are inherently better than others too.
38 special is always subsonic. No special bullet to buy. Making the 38/357 Pardner one of the handiest rifles I have (no that wasn't a pun, but it is true).
357 being supersonic, especially out of the long barrel is louder obviously, but better at longer ranges too. This is turning out to be my primary brush gun for hunting. Light, accurate, very likable gun.
9mm 147 and 158 gr loads sound more like a paintball than a gun.
22LR subsonic is also very handy and versatile.
Those are my 3 favorite suppressed pistol calibers. And a 9mm suppressor will work well on all 3 of them.
If you don't mind me asking, which 9mm suppressor are you considering? Thompson Machine and Huntertown Arms and liberty suppressors are all very good and among the most affordable too. Unless you plan on designing and building your own. In that case, it could be less expensive, or more expensive depending on many different factors.
38 special is always subsonic. No special bullet to buy. Making the 38/357 Pardner one of the handiest rifles I have (no that wasn't a pun, but it is true).
357 being supersonic, especially out of the long barrel is louder obviously, but better at longer ranges too. This is turning out to be my primary brush gun for hunting. Light, accurate, very likable gun.
9mm 147 and 158 gr loads sound more like a paintball than a gun.
22LR subsonic is also very handy and versatile.
Those are my 3 favorite suppressed pistol calibers. And a 9mm suppressor will work well on all 3 of them.
If you don't mind me asking, which 9mm suppressor are you considering? Thompson Machine and Huntertown Arms and liberty suppressors are all very good and among the most affordable too. Unless you plan on designing and building your own. In that case, it could be less expensive, or more expensive depending on many different factors.
If you don't mind me asking, which 9mm suppressor are you considering? Thompson Machine and Huntertown Arms and liberty suppressors are all very good and among the most affordable too. Unless you plan on designing and building your own. In that case, it could be less expensive, or more expensive depending on many different factors.[/QUOTE]
Probably one of the K model Osprey from Silencerco, good for 9mm-.45. Their shop is in my area, and I'm going to check it out next week. I'll report my impressions.
Probably one of the K model Osprey from Silencerco, good for 9mm-.45. Their shop is in my area, and I'm going to check it out next week. I'll report my impressions.
No problem.
My impression of 45 suppressors are pretty low. I don't know if it's because of the large bore that lets gas escape into the atmosphere mostly uninhibited or what.
But I've never been around the osprey in person so I'd like to hear what you think of them. I suppose they'll let you test fire a demo to see what you think.
My impression of 45 suppressors are pretty low. I don't know if it's because of the large bore that lets gas escape into the atmosphere mostly uninhibited or what.
But I've never been around the osprey in person so I'd like to hear what you think of them. I suppose they'll let you test fire a demo to see what you think.
I didn't go see their shop (they don't have any displays or test mules, but did invite me to come look at a bunch of CNC machines running).
They gave a thumbs up to the CZ and a tactful thumbs down to the Berrata.
Soo, I ordered the CZ and the Omega 9K silencer today! I should have both in 3-9 months
.
They gave a thumbs up to the CZ and a tactful thumbs down to the Berrata.
Soo, I ordered the CZ and the Omega 9K silencer today! I should have both in 3-9 months
.
Yeah, I should be able to submit the paperwork the county LCEO next week when I get the silencer serial number. I can get the signature either in the city or the county, and my dealer told me to use the county because the city chief is sitting on NFA forms. This surprises me because Utah is mostly a "shall permit" state.
Bonus: my local dealer let me put down only $100 for the gun and silencer, which is good because I kind of rushed the purchase due to what may happen legally this year.
I'm worried (based on no real evidence) that the tax stamp could go up significantly or class lll get eliminated entirely. I guess the tax could be eliminated also, but not taking that bet.
SilencerCo warranties their silencers for life and I questioned them about that for ones you can't disassemble. They said worst case scenario, if they can't fix it, they will sell you a new one for 75% off (even if you are negligent, once), but you have to get a new stamp.
It's good they warrant everything like that.
I suspect the 25% replacement fee would cover the materials and their time LOL.
As for your other concerns, they would have to rewrite the 1934 law entirely to change the tax amount, or eliminate it entirely.
I would like to see the 1934 NFA die entirely. And as I may or may not have mentioned before, there is a lawsuit waiting to see if the supreme court will hear the case or not.
I suspect the 25% replacement fee would cover the materials and their time LOL.
As for your other concerns, they would have to rewrite the 1934 law entirely to change the tax amount, or eliminate it entirely.
I would like to see the 1934 NFA die entirely. And as I may or may not have mentioned before, there is a lawsuit waiting to see if the supreme court will hear the case or not.
As many of you know, I've owned one of the early production Beretta Centurions for a few years now.
I have always liked the short slide on it. Makes it real handy. At least easier than the full size slide versions. Another positive for this particular gun, it came with trijicon night sights direct from the factory so that's another feather in its' hat and it was made early enough that is has all metal parts before they decided to throw a lot of plastic parts inside of there. Guide rod, trigger, etc. Nowadays, folks pay extra in the aftermarket to upgrade their metal parts. Places like Wilson Combat make a decent living from that.
One of the reasons I bought that gun was the rare chance that I could find a decent shape surplus M9 barrel assembly because they are extended enough to thread due to the shorter slide. You can see in the above posts that the 92 isn't my first choice for a suppressed handgun, but as LES has stated, the locking lug in the new production M9's seem to be a little better. Further, the Centurion action spring is a mere 12 pounds and it probably won't be strong enough to cycle with the suppressor attached as is, but I believe that adding one of Wilson combats flat coil springs may help, or perhaps get one of their 15# springs may will almost certainly do the trick. Of course I will try to shoot it first before changing anything, but as is, with the can attached the slide is sluggish near the end of its' forward travel.
Back to the subject at hand, I was able to find a brand new, and sealed in the wrap surplus M9 barrel on ebay of all places. And for a smoking deal of $89 and free shipping. This was for the entire assembly. Pin, locking lug and barrel. The whole 9 yards.
OK, that's just not right and is "making me" buy it and just too much temptation so I jumped. The barrel came this morning. 2 whole days after I ordered it. And yes, I did leave positive feedback for the seller.
Quick shot of the M9 barrel straight out of the bag to show the difference in added barrel length on the short Centurion slide.
So after checking the fit and function of the new barrel, I got started determining where to stop the threading. For those that don't know, on these pistols (and most like them) when the slide is back, the barrels do not sit in the same place in relation to the guide rod and the front of the frame as they do when the slide is in battery, so you have to be careful where the threading stops, otherwise the guide rod and the frame may batter the rear endcap of the suppressor when the gun cycles.
After I decided where I needed to make the shoulder, I had to adjust and readjust and readjust the position of the barrel in my 3 jaw chuck until it was as straight as I could get it, I held my breath and crossed my fingers and proceeded to turn the barrel down to .497" and stop on my mark and then changed my gears in my lathe to thread it.
Afterwards mounting the can to the barrel and checking fit for concentricity with a tight tolerance drill steel rod, and thankfully, there won't be any issues there and the final step, I blued the exposed metal with 44/40 cold blue. While blueing isn't a perfect match to parkerizing on the rest of the barrel, it will work with no issues.
I used the Beretta 92 thread recipe from AAC for the specs of the threading. Except for determining the shoulder placement because their spec was for a full size 92/M9. Not the shorter Centurion.
This photo is the best description that I could do to explain what I meant earlier about the placement of the shoulder of the barrel when the slide is open. I got as close to the guide rod as I felt comfortable doing without risking damage to my endcap and while giving as many threads as possible.
I have always liked the short slide on it. Makes it real handy. At least easier than the full size slide versions. Another positive for this particular gun, it came with trijicon night sights direct from the factory so that's another feather in its' hat and it was made early enough that is has all metal parts before they decided to throw a lot of plastic parts inside of there. Guide rod, trigger, etc. Nowadays, folks pay extra in the aftermarket to upgrade their metal parts. Places like Wilson Combat make a decent living from that.
One of the reasons I bought that gun was the rare chance that I could find a decent shape surplus M9 barrel assembly because they are extended enough to thread due to the shorter slide. You can see in the above posts that the 92 isn't my first choice for a suppressed handgun, but as LES has stated, the locking lug in the new production M9's seem to be a little better. Further, the Centurion action spring is a mere 12 pounds and it probably won't be strong enough to cycle with the suppressor attached as is, but I believe that adding one of Wilson combats flat coil springs may help, or perhaps get one of their 15# springs may will almost certainly do the trick. Of course I will try to shoot it first before changing anything, but as is, with the can attached the slide is sluggish near the end of its' forward travel.
Back to the subject at hand, I was able to find a brand new, and sealed in the wrap surplus M9 barrel on ebay of all places. And for a smoking deal of $89 and free shipping. This was for the entire assembly. Pin, locking lug and barrel. The whole 9 yards.
OK, that's just not right and is "making me" buy it and just too much temptation so I jumped. The barrel came this morning. 2 whole days after I ordered it. And yes, I did leave positive feedback for the seller.
Quick shot of the M9 barrel straight out of the bag to show the difference in added barrel length on the short Centurion slide.
So after checking the fit and function of the new barrel, I got started determining where to stop the threading. For those that don't know, on these pistols (and most like them) when the slide is back, the barrels do not sit in the same place in relation to the guide rod and the front of the frame as they do when the slide is in battery, so you have to be careful where the threading stops, otherwise the guide rod and the frame may batter the rear endcap of the suppressor when the gun cycles.
After I decided where I needed to make the shoulder, I had to adjust and readjust and readjust the position of the barrel in my 3 jaw chuck until it was as straight as I could get it, I held my breath and crossed my fingers and proceeded to turn the barrel down to .497" and stop on my mark and then changed my gears in my lathe to thread it.
Afterwards mounting the can to the barrel and checking fit for concentricity with a tight tolerance drill steel rod, and thankfully, there won't be any issues there and the final step, I blued the exposed metal with 44/40 cold blue. While blueing isn't a perfect match to parkerizing on the rest of the barrel, it will work with no issues.
I used the Beretta 92 thread recipe from AAC for the specs of the threading. Except for determining the shoulder placement because their spec was for a full size 92/M9. Not the shorter Centurion.
This photo is the best description that I could do to explain what I meant earlier about the placement of the shoulder of the barrel when the slide is open. I got as close to the guide rod as I felt comfortable doing without risking damage to my endcap and while giving as many threads as possible.