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Adjustment question.....

M

MT2

.410
I recently had my compound set up to fit me. Even though I was shooting really good the draw lenght was just about a 1" to long and I felt like I was stretched out when I shot it. Now it feels alot better but the sights are off.

I started off shooting about a 2" low on the 20yd pin. I bottomed that pin out and am still shooting about 1" low. My first though was to adjust the sights window. I havent been able to figure it out though, honestly been to busy shooting the recurve to tinker with the compound. During this time another guy told me to adjust my rest.

So know I ask a larger group of people where should I start? Sight window, arrowrest, other? I could always call or take it back to the shop where I had it set up. But honestly Im a tinker and would much rather get a good idea where to start and do it myself. Imo, thats the best way to learn.
 
Without knowing what your setup is I'll just go off the assumption that you are shooting a single-cam bow.....since that is what a vast majority are now.

When they changed out a draw-length module or swapped to a shorter drawing cam it may have moved your nock point in relation to your rest. Pretty easy to check, especially if you have a stabilizer on the front that's a few inches long and straight.......Nock an arrow and look at your bow from the side.....the arrow should run parallel to the stabilizer. I'm willing to bet it isn't anymore. You could possibly adjust that out by moving your rest but the best bet would be to move your nock point. If the nock point is in the wrong place on your string, chances are your peep sight is as well if you use one.......it will need to be moved and retied.

Hopefully that helps, if not give me some more info on what you shoot and I'll try again.....
 
Just changing the draw length 1" shouldn't change the point of impact (POI) that much. Yes, the arrow will hit lower due to decreased DL and draw weight but it shouldn't be dramatic. So, there are some other things to look at. One, as Tim4k5 stated, is to check the arrow level. It is best to use a bow vise to get the bow verticle but it can be done by hand. With the arrow mounted on the bow, hold the bow sideways and look at the angle of the arrow in relation to the berger hole (the hole that the arrow rest screw goes into). If the arrow is pointed down the either the nock point needs ot come down or the rest needs to come up.

Another thing that will have a big impact on the arrow flight will be your anchor point. It doesn't take much change to cause the arrow's POI to change a bunch. If your anchor point changed due to the DL change then that wil make the arrow hit in a different spot.

One other thing is to change the verticle gang adjustment on your sight. Instead of moving single pins, move the whole assembly down. Set your top pin (20 yd pin) almost at the top of the sight. Move the whole sight down until you're close. The adjust the pins individually.

Of course, these are all guesses on my part since I can't see your bow setup.
 
Probably,the problem should be solved following the advice given previously.Very well explained.
First,check the nock point.It must be lightly higher if you use fingers for shoting.Also,you should take a look at your peep to correct its position.

Then you can make the "baresaft test"at a distance about 12-15 yds to check if the nocking point is well placed.You must shot one arrow fletched and another arrow without fletching at the same spot.If the nocking point well placed correctly ,both arrows must be almost togheter.
The last step should be done with the complet sight system.You can move it to get a perfect hit on target.

I do not use peep for shooting;the reason I use the bow mainly at night.You should try to use a "kisser button" (there are several on market made from silicon) over the nock point to make a more consistent anchor point,placing it in the side of your mouth before releasing.
Keep us informed please.
 
MT2 said:
I posted a picture of my bow in the photo section...its a Reflex Growler
Click to expand...

Your pictures say they are not available. But I'm sure we can get it worked out for you.
 
Fixed that and reposting the picture so guys dont have to dance between posts

ReflexGrowler_zps18f9da04.jpg
 
If you're still having the problem you described, take a picture of your sight and your rest (preferably with the bow upright and an arrow on it).
 
I do beleive Ive got the dog licked now. I moved the sights window down and the 20yd pin pretty much came right in. Ran into another slight problem, went to adjust the 20yd pin and I be darn if I didnt snap the pin in half. No biggy really, the G5 sights has 5 pins and I was only going to sight in 4 of them. 20-50yds, got to fine tune it again but Im within 1/2" of where I should be. Was going to to take a picture of the grouping to show you where I was but I decided to make one round before taking a photo and thats when I realized I was done for awhile.....the grouping was bad. But I did spend several hours shooting the recurve before switching to the compound all in all I shot a over 100 arrows today.
 
Glad to hear that it's shooting better, but I'd still take a look at your nocking point. A 1" draw length change shouldn't have affected your impact point that much at 20yds. If your arrow alignment is off you may have it shooting decent with field points but it would be all over with broadheads. If you've never paper-tuned a bow I highly recommend it for the initial setup.......it gives you a good idea of what your arrow is doing between bow and target and lets you squeeze out the last bit of accuracy.
 
I should of mentioned I did check it, even stuck a square on it I was able to use from a buddy and it was a 1/8" above center. Which on the nock I put on my recurve the package said to set between 1/8" to 1/4". I'll probably take it and have it paper tuned once I get shooting it more and catch one of the local shops that offer paper tuning open.
 
I know this is an old post but the first I would do is download Easton Arrows tuning guide. But until then, it sounds like you may have to make slight adjustments to your peep. This is what I do the first time I sight in a new sight (just switched to a one pin adjustable). Set your sight housing center and adjust your first pin has high has it will go. Then adjust your housing as needed. If this don't fix the problem then I'm willing to bet it's your peep (assuming that ur rest is square and true).


Note: I almost forgot. Every time u change you draw, you change or A2A lenght. I'll check that first and make sure it's within factory spec. If not, have you LE local pro shop to add or subtract twist in your cables until the correct A2A spec is achieved.
 
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