New (to me) 12 gauge Barrel
- Thread starter John A.
- Start date
:shock: That's SEXY!!!
Nice work John...
Nice work John...
The birchwood casey permablue paste is easy.
You just squeeze some on a rag and wipe it over the part to be blued (probably several coats if you went to bare metal like I did), then wait and nuetralize it.
The directions say to wipe the parts off with water after about 10 minutes of being exposed to the chemical, but I always wait overnight (or several hours between coats) and the final thing I do is wipe off with gun oil instead of water. It just seems to give it a darker, shinier result to me.
Just to clarify, I don't oil/nuetralize between coats. I just put another coat of blue on the barrel until you get the color you like, and the last thing I do is oil it down to nuetralize the blueing solution.
Another good cold blue solution (but I didn't need that much) is Brownells Oxpho blue. I personally prefer paste
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools ... d1108.aspx
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eQ6LNhp9pfs[/youtube]
Cold blueing is a lot easier than hot blueing
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f_tvVAt8LPo[/youtube]
You just squeeze some on a rag and wipe it over the part to be blued (probably several coats if you went to bare metal like I did), then wait and nuetralize it.
The directions say to wipe the parts off with water after about 10 minutes of being exposed to the chemical, but I always wait overnight (or several hours between coats) and the final thing I do is wipe off with gun oil instead of water. It just seems to give it a darker, shinier result to me.
Just to clarify, I don't oil/nuetralize between coats. I just put another coat of blue on the barrel until you get the color you like, and the last thing I do is oil it down to nuetralize the blueing solution.
Another good cold blue solution (but I didn't need that much) is Brownells Oxpho blue. I personally prefer paste
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools ... d1108.aspx
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eQ6LNhp9pfs[/youtube]
Cold blueing is a lot easier than hot blueing
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f_tvVAt8LPo[/youtube]
I don't think anybody does.
Blueing is actually a form of rusting (oxidation). In the case of blueing though, is intentional and is a form of protective oxidation over the metal.
One alternative to blueing is case hardening. It is done by heating the part up with a torch until it is really hot (glowing) and then drop it into a bowl full of used motor oil.
After it cools, reheat until the part turns blue (or bluish) and then immerse in room temperature water until you can touch it without burning yourself
That also forms a protective layer, and a side effect, actually tempers the part and makes it harder.
Case hardening has been used for more than 100 years on firearms and various other metal items and no two will be exactly alike.
I borrowed the link to this Olympic Arms pistol as an example of what a nice case harden finish looks like.
Blueing is actually a form of rusting (oxidation). In the case of blueing though, is intentional and is a form of protective oxidation over the metal.
One alternative to blueing is case hardening. It is done by heating the part up with a torch until it is really hot (glowing) and then drop it into a bowl full of used motor oil.
After it cools, reheat until the part turns blue (or bluish) and then immerse in room temperature water until you can touch it without burning yourself
That also forms a protective layer, and a side effect, actually tempers the part and makes it harder.
Case hardening has been used for more than 100 years on firearms and various other metal items and no two will be exactly alike.
I borrowed the link to this Olympic Arms pistol as an example of what a nice case harden finish looks like.
No problem guys. Glad to be able to spread a little knowlege around every now and again if it helps someone out.
Here's a few magazines that I modified to work in my M10. They were originally from an old WWII Suomi machinegun, and I had to grind the rear and front plate so they would insert in the M10's magwell, and then weld a few stops in place so they'll lock into place in the M10.
Instead of bluing the mags, I used the case harden treatment on them.
They're not as dark and beautiful as they were originally, but after about 3 years now, still haven't rusted up on me and I don't think are really bad looking.
The tig welding discolored the mags at the spot welds worse than case hardening, which looks pretty good actually
Before:
After
Here's a few magazines that I modified to work in my M10. They were originally from an old WWII Suomi machinegun, and I had to grind the rear and front plate so they would insert in the M10's magwell, and then weld a few stops in place so they'll lock into place in the M10.
Instead of bluing the mags, I used the case harden treatment on them.
They're not as dark and beautiful as they were originally, but after about 3 years now, still haven't rusted up on me and I don't think are really bad looking.
The tig welding discolored the mags at the spot welds worse than case hardening, which looks pretty good actually
Before:
After
Very cool, I love case hardening.
Nice work on the mags and that 1911 you posted from the Oly forum is dead SEXY! :shock:
Nice work on the mags and that 1911 you posted from the Oly forum is dead SEXY! :shock:
Itsricmo
.30-06
I did a little research on Birchwood Casey, they do have a brown finish for replica and older style gun finishes like flint locks and stuff. But I wouldn't want to do that too a shotgun haha
Great job on the mags! Case hardening is not something I would willingly do by myself haha
Great job on the mags! Case hardening is not something I would willingly do by myself haha
Itsricmo said:Case hardening is not something I would willingly do by myself haha
There isn't anything to it.
You heat it up until the metal glows, drop it in a bucket or vat of oil, you wait until it cools off, you heat it up again (but not as hot), and then drop it in clean water until it cools. Wipe it down with oil and you're done.
It's really that simple.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3QOjMuI7V90[/youtube]
In all fairness, using charcoal and bone dust is the real way to case harden, but any kind of carbon based material will work. (oil and coal [charcoal] are both carbon based--extinct dinosaurs LOL)