I know it.. I’ve been researching for some way to “seal” it: I’ve found matte selants and cleaners but the I kind of doubt they’d hold up to CLP’s and the likes. Maybe I can get away with cleaning it with the matte cleaner (the painted part of course) and do my best not to get the gun oil on it.Looks good but a lot of solvents may eat or soften the paint...
No sir, it’s almost a year old.Is that an older Maverick 88?
No sir. Not quite a year old.Is that an older Maverick 88?
Well... I was I was attempting to touch up a few scratches with some gun blue and I made it worse. I was like well, I have some flat black “cammo” on hand.. Plus I was bored and wanted a project.Just wondering.......why paint it flat black?
Very nice. Just today I was wondering how to coat a raw lower receiver.Glad it's holding up good for you.
I'm a huge fan of Norrells Moly socom black.
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Thanks.Glad it's holding up good for you.
I'm a huge fan of Norrells Moly socom black.
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Now that’s what I’m talkin’ about! Good deal.I did 2 500's, a 12 and a 20 with Krylon in a sponge paint camo about 5 years ago. I am talking the entire gun on both of them!
They have both seen thousands of rounds and at least a few cleanings with no deterioration of the paint job!
If it ever does start to come off, a little more paint is a easy enough fix.
Pretty nice man.The only thing that I think is better than moly is Parkerizing itself. And if you put moly over Parkerizing, is about as good as it's going to get. I put moly on my cans. They hold up to heat better than everything else. More resistant to chemicals and scratches too.
As for spray on-bake on firearm finishes, norrells moly is king.
Here is a project with moly over park.
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