Good morning Mossberg Owners.
The weather has turned wet and windy so I can’t weld on the car. I’m back to working indoors on the next little rocket stove.
So this is the compressor from a small refrigerator. The steel is substantially thick. 3mm before pressing.
I cut it apart in the vise with my fake sawzall. The top and bottom are electric seam welded, and they leave a convenient little groove to get your saw started.
So what’s inside this is, a small amount of lubricating oil, 3 short wires, copper thermostat tube, and a brushless 120vac 60hz synchronous electric motor that drives a piston pump.
Synchronous just means that it will try to run at some multiple of that 60hz frequency. (50 Hz in Europe and other places.)
Notice how the extra counterweight is riveted to the crankshaft.
Cute little piston pump!
The only connections from the motor and pump assembly to the case are three springs and three wires. The 2 larger tubes coming into this case connect only to the case.
There’s a little plastic scoop on the piston pump, which is the freon pump intake, and it is positioned very closely to the freon line coming into the case.
Pressure from the piston pump just exits this hole into the case & simply flows out of the case through another line to the condenser coils.
There are no gas-tight connections to the pump. It just bobbles around inside on its 3 little springs. It sucks up Freon spewing in through the open copper tube, compresses it, and spews it into the steel case.
There is almost no way to break this thing unless you cut the wires or one of the three copper tubes. Cutting the tiny third tube which controls the thermostat will also leak out the Freon.
But, A big dent in the case would probably not effect the operation at all. You could literally throw this thing off a truck onto the ground and it wouldn’t hurt anything inside of it.
So all the little parts come off with grinders and drills. I drilled out the factory welds and brazing. This little lip came off with the sawzall.
Drilling out the electrical connector, I used the Uni-bit and just powered through it. The electrical pins have some very tough glass insulators that will shatter.
This was electronically welded steel, where it appears that the three copper tubes were furnace brazed in place. I’m gonna grind off every trace of copper before I try to TIG this.
Here is the empty case, before completely removing the copper (and 3 thin electrical pins,) and you see three 6mm dia steel pins, where the isolator springs are retained.
This will make a nice little fire pot.
So now I have to figure out the door, hinges, legs, chimney, and stove top.
The weather has turned wet and windy so I can’t weld on the car. I’m back to working indoors on the next little rocket stove.
So this is the compressor from a small refrigerator. The steel is substantially thick. 3mm before pressing.
I cut it apart in the vise with my fake sawzall. The top and bottom are electric seam welded, and they leave a convenient little groove to get your saw started.
So what’s inside this is, a small amount of lubricating oil, 3 short wires, copper thermostat tube, and a brushless 120vac 60hz synchronous electric motor that drives a piston pump.
Synchronous just means that it will try to run at some multiple of that 60hz frequency. (50 Hz in Europe and other places.)
Notice how the extra counterweight is riveted to the crankshaft.
Cute little piston pump!
The only connections from the motor and pump assembly to the case are three springs and three wires. The 2 larger tubes coming into this case connect only to the case.
There’s a little plastic scoop on the piston pump, which is the freon pump intake, and it is positioned very closely to the freon line coming into the case.
Pressure from the piston pump just exits this hole into the case & simply flows out of the case through another line to the condenser coils.
There are no gas-tight connections to the pump. It just bobbles around inside on its 3 little springs. It sucks up Freon spewing in through the open copper tube, compresses it, and spews it into the steel case.
There is almost no way to break this thing unless you cut the wires or one of the three copper tubes. Cutting the tiny third tube which controls the thermostat will also leak out the Freon.
But, A big dent in the case would probably not effect the operation at all. You could literally throw this thing off a truck onto the ground and it wouldn’t hurt anything inside of it.
So all the little parts come off with grinders and drills. I drilled out the factory welds and brazing. This little lip came off with the sawzall.
Drilling out the electrical connector, I used the Uni-bit and just powered through it. The electrical pins have some very tough glass insulators that will shatter.
This was electronically welded steel, where it appears that the three copper tubes were furnace brazed in place. I’m gonna grind off every trace of copper before I try to TIG this.
Here is the empty case, before completely removing the copper (and 3 thin electrical pins,) and you see three 6mm dia steel pins, where the isolator springs are retained.
This will make a nice little fire pot.
So now I have to figure out the door, hinges, legs, chimney, and stove top.
