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sks spike bayonet

John A.

John A.

Unconstitutional laws are not laws.
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I closed the WTB ad for the SKS bayonet but since I found one, but the topic had so many helpful replies, I moved it into the workbench section rather than deleting it.

I'm wanting to build a different kind of project completely with it.

A functional and full size spear.

Something my Cherokee ancestors would have been proud to have.

There will be more pictures and discussion to come after I get the parts. This SHOULD be a pretty simple project. Drill a few holes. A nut and bolt. Some epoxy. And I'm not sure what else just yet.
 
Funny story.
When I went to buy my SKS in CA years and years ago it had the bayonet on it.
When I went to pick it up 15 days later the store said ATF had come in and told them they needed to remove the bayonets. They told me I couldn't have one.

A while later, at a gun store, I was rummaging through a big bargain bin and found a cruciform bayonet for a SKS.
I asked the guy "how much for the SKS bayonet?"
He said "that's not a bayonet. It's a "tent spike".
I said "no. It's a cruciform bayonet"
He said "No..It's a tent spike and I sell tent spikes for $5."
It then dawned on me and I said "Ya know, I really could use a tent spike"
:lol:
 
Well, since you mentioned it, I'm also in the market for a cruciform tent spike if you have one or may have a lead on one.
 
I can't tell if that's the full size one or the "paratrooper". I'd have to call and check, but yes. Thank you.
 
Are you looking for any particular type of spike? I have 3/8", 7/16", 1/2", 5/8" and 3/4" 6061 Alum. rod in stock if you want me to spike one end for you...
 
Thank you for the offer Bobster. I appreciate it a lot.

I was looking for the SKS spike bayonet because I was wanting to make a spear and was going to use it as the point. And with how that bayonet is made, would be perfect for that.
 
This is some random pic of 1/2" Al rod "prototypes" I had in my archives. Chucked up a piece of rod in a drill and pushed the spinning point against a running belt sander to achieve this although a lathe would work as well...

pointybits.jpg
 
That would definately be one effective point. It looks like it would pierce you just by looking at it.

I just don't know how durable the aluminum rod would be over time? I have some 1/4" aluminum rod in 6061 that I used when I made the extension for my crossbow stock. I just don't know how well they would resist bending with a lot of weight behind it and after they struck something a few times.

But that sure is some steady hands to sand that down to a point like that.
 
John, the other thing that I've seen is taking a common metal file and grinding it into a knife or bayonet.

Files are heat treated so retain strength.

Regards
 
You know, that's not really a bad idea that I hadn't considered.

I was mainly considering the sks spike bayonet due to the triangle shape/wound channel.
 
John, depending on the file size selected you could grind it into a single or double edge blade and whatever blade shape in between. Have a friend who makes certain size hunting knives from files. You just need to watch your metal temperature while grinding and use a water bath often. Then finish with a belt sander. Would assume you wouldn't need a razor sharp edge.

Any old files in your tool box?

Good luck.

Regards
 
I was able to find a bayonet. As was mentioned, I intend to make a full size and fully functional spear with it. May be a while before I get it in the mail and am able to do it. But, it seems like a fun project.
 
Well, after some trial and error, I think I have it the way that I want.

To begin with, I just drilled the hole for the tang, countersunk the entire bayonet into the wood a little and cross drilled for a pin to hold it together.

After about a half a dozen throws, the wood split under the force and the weight.

So, after deciding that I don't want to use sinew or wrap it with hemp rope or something, I machined out a collar to reinforce the wood further than the tang from a piece of aluminum bar stock.

I still need to use a piece of soft malleable metal to make a rivet the right length and diameter, or I may even just use a wooden dowel. I did put some epoxy between the collar and the wood, but obviously, it needs a pin or rivet to lock everything together. I may also end up putting some paint on it just to make it a little more tactical (that's sarcasm).

Since this doesn't use gunpowder or detachable magazines, I guess I don't have to comply with all those 80% personal made arms serial numbers and other assorted stupidity that the government is wanting me to do with guns.

sFAwrJ3.jpg


9FYPn3s.jpg
 
John A. said:
Well, after some trial and error, I think I have it the way that I want.

To begin with, I just drilled the hole for the tang, countersunk the entire bayonet into the wood a little and cross drilled for a pin to hold it together.

After about a half a dozen throws, the wood split under the force and the weight.

So, after deciding that I don't want to use sinew or wrap it with hemp rope or something, I machined out a collar to reinforce the wood further than the tang from a piece of aluminum bar stock.

I still need to use a piece of soft malleable metal to make a rivet the right length and diameter, or I may even just use a wooden dowel. I did put some epoxy between the collar and the wood, but obviously, it needs a pin or rivet to lock everything together. I may also end up putting some paint on it just to make it a little more tactical (that's sarcasm).

Since this doesn't use gunpowder or detachable magazines, I guess I don't have to comply with all those 80% personal made arms serial numbers and other assorted stupidity that the government is wanting me to do with guns.

sFAwrJ3.jpg


9FYPn3s.jpg
Click to expand...
Looks more like a javelin that would be used for track and field events than a weapon. I LIKE IT!!!!
 
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